PAGING MADMIKE ...lol

well here's my 100.00 jackson...

take a look:
https://s296.photobucket.com/albums/mm171/amimbari/Busted%20CMG/

my friend like a frikken idiot gave the buyer his money back. the buyer had it for 3 weeks before telling my friend it was no good ---talk about a HUGE LIE without even thinking that the *** buyer messed it all up. I TOLD HIM NOT TO and let the jerk make a claim he would win and let the *** buyer keep his busted bass that HE busted, but he did it anyway. I'll bet the fool was holding onto the head when he stripped the nut and thats what ripped the FB away from the back....

so now I have a junk guitar, but with your help, it will get put back together and made into a lefty frankenbass. the neck pocket is totally different than my model-series units, so my charvel neck cant go on the body. maybe you can keep the body for yourself. I dunno.....

I don't understand. This neck on what bass charvel what body on who's what now?

Ha!

Yeah, I can fix that neck. All that nicey nice binding freaks me out and wont be all super polished 2000 grit sanded and the neck wont be lacquer .... but I been thinking of stepping up to clear lacquer for necks. I still prefer a tongue oil neck.

After replacing a truss, there needs to be some fret leveling and crowning. Since ill be at it, you could send that series 10 neck back with it and ill fix that buzz.

i'm home and plugged it in,,, and ya it works and it plays perfectly it's intonated but the damage is obvious and the E string rattles of course... the S10 I use and wont have a chance to take it apart to send till the end of this month. I'll jam a youtube on the CMG this weekend and send it to you next week.

you'll make it nice. I thought about putting that neck on my lefty warrior body, but that was setup for a 24 fret neck and the bridge would be in the wrong place. it would be easy for you to fill in the holes and move the bridge, but the pocket is 100% different. So, if a lefty bass using that neck gets done, it will be with a fresh unrouted body so it fits correctly from the start.

I never had one of these things to see if it sounded different than the p'j's...well it does totally so the 2 emgHZ's/preamp will be used on whatever we can think up. and like i said you can keep the body for something else.

If anyone can bring this bass back to life, it's MadMike. NO doubt!

Great ... now the pressure is on. Like I said, im iffey about that binding. I never did any binding work. Where there is some instrument woodworking info out there, there is almost no info on binding.

Ill figure it out.

oh what i was gonna do was put my spare neck from an old righty charvel on that body, keep it to noodle on, but I eyed it up and it looks like it wont fit in the pocket. I'm gonna take that blue bass apart this weekend just to make sure...

once again if it dont fit, you can have the body to do whatever you want with it.

this righty reverseneck i flipped in my pic program.. if a lefty tbird body can be found, this is exactly what it would look like -- except in a solid color and no switch because there would be a bird pickguard up there.

.

ok wait, hold the phone, stop the presses...oh sh*t.

ok so I got that CMG, ya it does have a sharkneck BUT it still would look sort of dorky a lefty body and a righty neck SOOOOOOO.......

I just bought ( thanks to nobody liking pointyheads ) yet another model2 lefty same as my white and burgandy units for 120.00 ( mad-cheap considering my white one was 275 and my burgundy was 300 ).

NOW I'm thinking give the whole CMG to Mike to keep and do whatever he wants with it, and take the neck off this new lefty and toss it on a birdbody, but warmoth's lefty unfinished raised center item is close to 400 shipped, then Mike's labor to paint it on top of it yikes a 700 bass??

oh great decisions decisions

If your getting an unfinished Warmoth body, ill just charge you the cost of the paint. Unfinished Warmoth body, what do I gotta do? A real quick 220 sand, 2 coats of sealer, a quick 300 sand and paint / lacquer. That's 2 hours of work stretched out by drying time to about 10 - 12 days.

Easy.

i did a recheck.

basswood alder ash all 205.00
mahog is 230
walnut 275

Specifications
Model: Standard Thunderbird Bass
Scale: 34 in.
Orientation: Left handed
Wood:
$205.00

Core: Alder

Control Cavity: Rear Rout
+ $0.00
Pickup Rout: EMG 35 - EMG 35
+ $0.00
Control Rout:
+ $0.00

Bridge Type: Hardtail
$0.00
Bridge Rout: Ground Wire only, No Bridge
+ $0.00
Jack Rout: 1/2" (12.70mm) Side Jack Hole
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
+ $0.00
Contours:
+ $35.00

Contoured Heel

Battery Box: None
+ $0.00
Price: $240.00


i cant find the section on the bass builder about the raised center anywhere today on the site ???

Only available on the t bird, mahogany laminate on mahogany body for an additional $65.

If you go all out with mahogany, you still gonna want paint? Tongue oil or cheat satin on mahogany looks nice. How would it match the neck?

eeewwww no woodgrain.

I'm still torn between colors.. black, red, white...i dunno yet.

here's my friends EPI but satin is so "dull" I'd rather have it creme satin like the series10:
and if white, you would have your guy cut a black charvel sticker. If it ends up black, The neck would work as-is since it is already a blackhead lefty.

A word of warning about the warmth T bird bodies. The rout the neck too far out on the body, so the bass is horribly neck heavy & you need gorilla arms to play it. I would order it without the neck rout, or just go to the lumber yard & get a single piece of Mahogany or whatever, trace one of your other bird bodies & cut it out on the bandsaw. Thats what I did for my Fenderbird. The body wood cost $30 and they planed it down for me as well.

oh wow THANKS for the tip. ya maybe Mike can just glue some 2x4's together and make me a pine-bird...

it's gonna be built one way or another this year... even if it is made out of SUMAC tree wood