Nut replacement

I got a Graphtech nut for my Hamer and I want to get to replacing it, but the stock nut is glued in. How can I separate the nut from the neck/fingerboard without damaging either the wood or the nut?

it helps to know what the nutt glue is ... epoxy, wood glue, crazy glue? that way you can determine what kinda solvent to use.

crazy glue disolves with nail polish remover.
water breaks down wood glue.
alcohol breaks down p.s.a.'s
laquer thinner breaks down epoxy.

wether you know or dont know, start with a solvent that is less dammaging first ... water, alcohol, nail polish remover, zylene, laquer thinner (genteler to more dammaging respectively). you wan tto expose you bass to the least dammaging chemicals as you have to. if you dont know ... start with water or alcohol. most nutts are installed with crazyglue so nail polish remover would be next. again be careful ... if the existing nutt is some kinda plastic, some solvents will turn it to goo.

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH SOLVENTS AROUND YOUR BASS! i've wrecked basses before.

find a syringe and insert in the most inconspicuous place ... i'm thinking where the truss rod cavity goes under the nutt. lightly inject with the solvent a few times. this puts the solvent exactly where you need to break the bond without prying off the finish or the wood.

if its in there ... like way too good ... good luck.

Hmm. Any other suggestions? I'll see what I can do about that.

I've always braced something against the nut, and tapped it very lightly with a hammer, there should only be enough glue to hold the nut in place, always popped right out for me, no damage.

What I do (and all the other repair guys in the shop I work at do), is take a razor blade and butt it up against the tuner-side of the nut blade resting on the headstock. Carefully run the blade across the length of the nut to cut any lacquer that might have adhered to the nut. Then take a flat head screw driver (or block of wood, whatever is handy, really) and from the fretboard side of the nut tap the screwdriver into the nut with a hammer. Just tap your way across the face of the nut until it is loose. It should come out cleanly, but there might be some glue left in the nut slot, so make sure you get rid of that with a chisel or razor blade before putting the new nut in. I suggest that you glue the nut in. A small dot of wood glue (or superglue) on the bottom of the side of the nut that butts up to the fretboard will do. Just let the string hold the nut in place while the glue dries.

Also:
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Nuts,_saddles/a-nuts.html

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Nuts,_saddles/i-5350.html

Thank you, guys! Thank you very much! I'll get on it as soon as I have a moment to myself...

I was going to throw in my two-cents, but everyone else already said what I was going to say anyways!

Cool beans...once I sell some stuff, I'll be able to get the proper files and a new bridge, then I'll be on my way.

EricHaven wrote:

I was going to throw in my two-cents, but everyone else already said what I was going to say anyways!

every time your willing to toss 2 cents out there, just put it your YAMAHA BB FUND jar....

amimbari wrote:

EricHaven wrote:

I was going to throw in my two-cents, but everyone else already said what I was going to say anyways!

every time your willing to toss 2 cents out there, just put it your YAMAHA BB FUND jar....

Nice! Savings plan!

If I had 2 cents for every time I gave 2 cents, I'd own a Ritter bass by now...

amimbari wrote:

every time your willing to toss 2 cents out there, just put it your YAMAHA BB FUND jar....

You are totally right, Mike. The scary thing is that I have more than enough for an older/used BB300 right now, but I am holding out for a new/updated model.

EricHaven wrote:

amimbari wrote:

every time your willing to toss 2 cents out there, just put it your YAMAHA BB FUND jar....

You are totally right, Mike. The scary thing is that I have more than enough for an older/used BB300 right now, but I am holding out for a new/updated model.

Cool beans!!

i'm a chemical head.

this is because i use such cool solvents and chemicals in the graphic arts trade.

dont put chemicals on your bass unless you absolutely have to. i have to agree with those guys that its better to use a mechanical way to get the old nut off.

you cant have any of my cents ... i'm broke already. my savings is currently reduced to the change jar. see new toys ..........

madmike wrote:

i'm a chemical head.

this is because i use such cool solvents and chemicals in the graphic arts trade.

dont put chemicals on your bass unless you absolutely have to. i have to agree with those guys that its better to use a mechanical way to get the old nut off.

you cant have any of my cents ... i'm broke already. my savings is currently reduced to the change jar. see new toys ..........

Aren't we all.

No, that's cool, dude. I agree about putting solvents on a bass that I'm not going to have an easy time replacing/fixing and I know what I'm going to do to take the nut off. I can't destroy it entirely, as I want to make sure to replicate the same string spacing, but I need the slots not to be as low as they got on the old nut. I have the knowledge...I just need sone gauged nut files and a little bit of time, then I'll be set.

I feel you, man. But what a cool way to spend all your money--a new house, a new car. That's so awesome!